Pays Basque
Cuisine If there is one consistent theme running through Papillon tours, it's that we always find ourselves in regions that have their own particular cuisine. The Basque kitchen is perhaps the least understood of all French food for Americans. And I don't know why. You have ingredients from the sea (we can get sea food straight off the fishing boats!), from the mountains, from the French, the Spanish and of course, the Basques. The Basques, great sailors that they were, gave Europe the foods of the New World: corn, potatoes, chocolate, and chilies. The Basque chilies are mild, but surprisingly zesty. There must be a half dozen varieties prepared in every way imaginable. But whether pickled, dried, roasted, smoked, or even raw, they maintain a low level heat that brings the pleasure of capsicum without the pain. The most famous pepper dish, though, 'Biperrak Makallaoz Beteta' in Basque, incorporates another ingredient that the Basques gave the world: salt cod. Pequillo Peppers stuffed with Salt Cod. As whalers, the Basques sailed the known world. Some say they even reached the unknown world ahead of the Vikings--from whom they learned about Cod. A low fat fish, it lent itself perfectly to the salt drying methods that the Basques used to preserve their whale meat on long voyages. Thus was born one of the staples of cultures that ply the sea. It's odd to think that a North Atlantic fish became a fixture in almost every Mediterranean cuisine! Think also of the Basque cured ham! The sweet, delicate flavors of a Bayonne ham differ drastically from the earthy aged Spanish Serrano. There is such a range in styles and tastes that we have been able to put together ham tastings, of all things! We have also found producers of foie gras and confit that have made us re-think our notion of quality. Rich and fantastically voluptuous, these duck products are mountain fare a mere 5 miles from the sea. The milk-fed lamb of the Pyrenees, the blond cows of the Aquitaine, the black-and-white Basque pig (brought back from near extinction these past tewenty years) are all distinctive flavors of the region. This is one of those places where 'peasant' is not a pejorative word; the best of Basque meat still comes from small production farming. Brebis cheeses, traditionally eaten with the black cherry jam from Itxassou, make up another range of taste sensations. Whether from high up in the mountains or from the airy lower pastures, whether aged or young, the variety and quality have been impressive. And we have not even mentioned the chocolates from Bayonne! I knew I would like it here even before we arrived. I can happily tell you that it is better than I ever expected. Wine
Otherwise, lest we forget our geography, we can perfectly well justify delving into a few 'cru' from Bordeaux. We've quickly made friends with several of the established wine merchants in the back streets of Bayonne who keep some older bottles aside for occasions like this. On the other side of the border, well, that's another world! Some of the best Spanish wines are to be found in, or just beyond, the borders of the Basque Country. From the spritzy-fresh Txokoli white to the biggest Rioja reds, the range is impressive. And best of all, most of the wines that we have liked best are not exported much. This means we have the chance for new sensations with a few of our popular in-house tastings! Tempranillo, Garnacha, Graciano, Mazuelo, grape varieties that adapt quite differently to the several different production zones. Rioja Alta and Rioja Alavesa, the Navarra and the Rioja Baja, all close in proximity, but with varying degrees of influence from the Atlantic, the mountains and the Mediterranean. Needless to say, we have our work cut out for us if we are to get
through all of this variety in a week. But then, we've never been known to flag in
the face of a challenge!! Taste a sample menu (sadly, at this stage it has to be a 'virtual taste')
Home |
